Oh the lament of New Mexico and this
one's voyage through it.
Hey kids! Our last story time left off
in the exotic hippie town of Taos, and since my lazy brain prefers
its tales in a largely linear format, that's where we'll pick back
up.
The mom decided that we should take a
detour on the return trip and mosey on through the Sante Fe National
Forrest. I seconded. I still am not sure why I would make this
choice, but that is in retrospect. In retrospect, I can see that I
had a long weekend still ahead of sitting in the back of that car,
staring out the window as a landscape of unrelenting shades of brown
slowly crawled by. Yep, there was tan, and reddish brown. Ohh,
that's a nice little bit of common European Standards weights and
measurements brown. You may call me a brownoisseur. But if you do,
I might feel inclined to give you one helluva pinch for ever saying
something so astoundingly stupid in my presence.
Self-inflicted pain is the best kind,
that's my motto, along with Not in the Face! So I voiced my agreement
for the plan. Two positive votes beat out two ambivalent votes, so
the clan meandered off the beaten path back to the city and onto the
beaten path up into the mountains. So, we took 64 east, and here's
the thing, the map made the detour seem a lot shorter than it was.
Stupid lying maps.
I think that I was hearkening back to
the scenery in Alaska. Sights from my childhood that I would like to
see again. There are mountains in both places! How different could it
be? Rivers, lakes and waterfalls. Trees marching up snow-capped
mountains. And such a vivid rainbow of colors! Yay Alaska. And
there were trees – alas, where between them I would expect a bevy
of pleasing undergrowth to add a wealth of color and texture to the
scenery, there was only sandy soul. BROWN.
There was little else in the spring of
memory to remind me of my childhood.
Well. Aside from the creepy little
settlements that lie way off the beaten path, settlements where a
visitor might feel a bit wary of stepping out of their car, just in
case the banjo music suddenly started up. New Mexico shares that in
common with Alaska.
New Mexico is a poor state in so many
ways. You know that fundamental building block of life? If you said
Cheese, I'll grant you that, but it wasn't the answer I was looking
for. I was hoping that you yelled out 'Water', that simple chemical
that makes up 80% of the human body. A chemical that covers 75% of
our planet's surface. In terms of bodily needs for our species it
goes AIR>WATER>FOOD, in that order. We can survive maybe 3
days without ingesting it. WE need it to grow food. Waterfront
property goes for a premium. Water has replaced earthship for my
word of the day. But only because you can't drink Earthships –
which does not make a bit of sense, but I am sticking with the
sentiment regardless.
Our collective human civilizations have
built most of their cities around sources of water. As it happens,
water is not very common in the desert. My mind is blown! Deserts
are dry? You think that would be common knowledge, causing people to
avoid living in deserts. But it's true. And people seem to choose to
live there! Or maybe I am being Naive, and many of the residents
have become mired in the shifting sands.
Some people do. I am left to wonder if
many of these people are trapped there by economic circumstances.
Who would chose to live like this? Rural dwellings in Alaska, I can
understand. Alaska has abundant natural resources that can be
harvested with hard work. Sure, winters are long and importing food
and fuel is expensive, but that seems to be a fair trade for living
in Alaska.
New Mexico seems to be less so. Though
it must have some mineral wealth at the very least – one still
needs to overcome the water problem – and all of the challenges
that accompany a water poor landscape.
All along the highway there were
clustered settlements of homes, usually bunched with a small Catholic
church in the Spanish/Mexican style. From time to time, one will see
signs announcing a Land Grant community. Back in days of yore, the
various Governments of Mexico would entice citizens to move in to the
vast, and largely empty, territory by offering them huge tracts of
land. Tracts that would number in the tens of thousands of acres.
Some of those villages and families still reside on that land.
I do not know what services that one
needed to perform for king and country to gain such a boon, but a
little research has revealed the outlines of the process involved
with the actual grant. I only know that the various governments used
the grants as a way to settle land. Rather like our own government
has done. As has any society with a vast new frontier to conquer.
First, the land had to be uninhabited
by people(including natives – good on you Spain). Second, the
grantee would need to stay on the land for four or more years, after
which, in the eyes of Spain they owned that land and could do what
they pleased with it. Most of the land seemed to be used for
ranching and some subsistence farming. Though I find it difficult to
believe that one could do more than scratch out a living there. Some
of the land grants were made to entire villages, where individuals
and families were assigned a small plot to homestead while the rest
of the grant was communal.
After the Spanish-American war, the
entire region changed hands. The American government seems to have
largely respected the claims of the preexisting communities, but
America being what she is and always has been, justice hasn't always
been done and after the Mexican American war in the late 1840s, Land
Speculators stirred up quite a mess. Now there are legal questions
being raised about who actually owns the land.
Our route wove up, down and around the
mountain, taking us through several flyspeck little settlements as
previously described. Places which the mere existence of boggle my
mind. They're like communities on a foreign planet and I cannot
understand how they continue to exist. At least in some part, many
of them are supported by the illicit art trade that runs through
Taos. Of course it's illicit, Hippies are involved. Some of the
views from well up high was actually rather pretty. But don't tell
anyone I said so.
Speckled along the highways from
Albuquerque to Taos are more mobile homes than I have ever seen
before in my life. Many of them seemed to be in poor shape. And the
further away into the boonies you got, the worse the decay – a
surprising correlation to exactly 0% of the population of humans who
are capable of understanding the word correlation and using it in a
sentence. As well as pretty much anyone else as well. Except
perhaps movie executives. Those assholes are idiots.
Seriously you assholes, stop remaking
the good movies. A remake of Highlander? What's the fucking point?
If you need to revisit the past, due to cowardice on your part and a
lack of ideas, then revisit the thousands of broken movies that your
factories have churned out over the last hundred years. You can
start slow, maybe with Highlander 2. Then when you've got the hang
of it, jump in deep and try to unbork the library of Ed Wood. Dicks.
There are some run down locales, even
entire cities, in my home state. But New Mexico seems to have us
beat(or vice versa). I think that seeing those sad domiciles was the
most depressing reality of the visit. It was like someone had torn
apart the worst neighborhoods of Detroit, ground them up, and
sprinkled it all over the desert.
Eventually we crawled back to the city
and called it a day. At home we continued with our grand family
tradition, camping out on the couch while bathing in the cold glow of
the television. Letting the depressing images of poverty fade from
our consciousness as we followed the adventures of the Incredible
Hulk as he made his way through Latin America. If only the Hulk,
like some cosmic green rage driven god, could smash all of our social
problems. If only.
Monday crept in slowly in a manner that
Mondays so rarely do. But alas, there was more sitting in the back of
the car on the schedule. The mom wanted us to see the Ruins. Which
I would find out later to mean ruins of old Spanish Missions. Who
knows, somewhere in the wilds there might be an ancient city of a
lost civilization that is lined with dangers for the daring adventure
to endure. Mutants roam trap riddled streets and in its very heart
lies The Greatest Treasure of Them All. Since The Greatest Treasure
of Them All is absolutely subjective and based on an individuals
desires, I'll let you fill that part in. Will it be wealth? Magic
powers? Or maybe a vibrating, 12 inch, fully prehensile penis?
Or maybe all that lies out there is
unending desolate brown countryside. With the only ruins being those
in National Parks run by the Forest Service. As a man who majored in
history, I guess that's almost as cool.
Have I mentioned brown lately? How
about Earthships? They tend to be on the brown side as well. I
really need a new word for brown. I'm sick of typing those 5
letters. Tan? Dung? Umber! Now that sounds posh! Man, when I get
my Earthship I shall name it the Nostromo and I will be damned if it
is going to be Umber.
On the road west we encountered it.
The most delightfully honest thing I've ever seen in my life.
Now, Taos had Italian Restaurant as a
jewel in its hemp belt. There was no further name to the dive. No
Luigi's, or Fred's or Mama's. Just Italian Restaurant. Straight
forward. The sign leads me to think that New Mexicans are a rather
honest, straight forward, and extremely unimaginative lot. Nothing
more, just big red letters that declare that within one can acquire
Italian cooking.
What does this mean? Is the food so
astoundingly good that the owners only feel that they are the alpha
and omega of the cuisine? Italian Restaurant, the dizzying heights
to which all other establishments purporting to make Lasagna and
pizza are trying to aspire?
Perhaps I am misreading the intent, and
actually the food isn't that good. It could be that Italian
Restaurant is like a cheap ripoff of Olive Garden that was founded by
people who had only gotten so close to that franchise as to see the
middle three seconds of one of their ads. A place so sketchy that in
fact the twin specialties of the house are DiGiornos and
Spaghetti-os. With an unlimited And since this is New Mexico, both
are loaded down with your choice of green or red chillies.
Here Taos gets its Italian food. Or a
facsimile there of. I shall leave them to it.
Italian Restaurant is great and all,
but it doesn't hold a candle to the magnificent sight we encountered
on monday. BEHOLDs: ROADSIDE ATTRACTION!
Roadside Attraction. That was it and
all. I could be mistaken, but for the sake of this narrative, I'm
not. It was brilliantly generic. As we had a rather hectic schedule
of driving in a giant loop ahead of us, we didn't stop. I didn't get
to venture inside and explore the wonders. I don't know how I feel
about this, as I have seen far too many horror movies in my time to
walk into a seedy join that is clearly tourist bait.
Roadside Attraction! Maybe it was
owned by the same folks who owned Italian Restaurant. Honest,
hardworking folk who were skipped over by whatever force instills in
human beings the ability to instill interesting (if not memorable, as
I am talking about it now) names. People who have named all seven of
their children , boys and girls alike, a variation of Brad. Brad,
Bradly, Bradford, Bradette, Bradina, and Brad 2. Child four doesn't
get a name, as it is hidden in the basement and never talked about by
the family.
Certainly, the sign could have been a
bait and switch scheme. Oh, did you come from very far? Does anyone
know that you're here? They might ask with a knowing wink, a long
bladed kitchen knife in their hand as they waited for someone to step
into range.
Then again, there are so many
tantalizing secrets that their vaults could have held. I don't know
what wonders were cradled within those four walls, and the mystery
burns my mind!
Maybe there was an arena where
reanimated, heads of Walt Disney and Adolf Hitler were attached to
bionic dog bodies and forced to do battle in an eternal death match
pitting evil vrs slightly more evil for the entertainment of the
locals. Gears and circuits would fly in the dimly lit and dank
basement. All while color commentary flowed smoothly. Meanwhile, off
in an even more shady and dank corner, an old man with a squinty eye
would be selling some rather questionable objects.
What else can you expect from a place
named Roadside Attraction? A freaking giant ball of yarn? Though
not enough to hop a plane back to New Mexico to find out. Cause if I
did, I'd only find strings of dried chillies, post cards, touristy
hats, and other brickabrac. And I'd probably be kicked in the junk.
The Earthship tour experience seems to have jaded me some.
But for some reason we skipped on by
the cannibalistic, Hitler-Disney-headed-robot-dog-fighting-ring
running hillbillies. Dunno why. We had to go see the ruins, and not
get kidnapped, raped to death and eaten by the inbred family of
nuclear mutants that lived in the shed out back. Worst vacation
ever.
There are three different sets of ruins
in the park. We only visited two. Because the reality is that one
stack of stones that used to be a church looks almost identical to
every other stack of stones that used to be a church. That, and
after searching desperately for the secret entrance to the
dungeon/entrance to hell, and finding bupkis, TWICE, I was sorely
discouraged. I don't know about the rest of the family. They just
seemed bored. I can't blame them, as we didn't have to fight a
passel of animated skeletons once. Not once. Lamest temple ruins
ever.
There isn't much to describe. We got
out and walked around. I took pictures, trying to use my art degree
to create interesting images. I failed.
The exploding schoolbus signs! Yes,
that sentence was intentional. This is a thing in New Mexico. As are
cattle crossing signs sporting UFOs. The latter are expected. The
former were a surprise indeed. The signs were posted in a hilly
region and I took them as a warning about school buses being in the
area. School buses that exploded when they got angry, and were ever
waiting in ambush for unwary travelers.
But what can you expect? In an
environment as harsh as that, only the most well adapted will
survive, and I'm willing to lay dollars to donuts that the exploding
school bus is at the top of the foodchain.
One final thing that I noticed was that
it seemed like a quarter of all the houses had bars on the windows
and doors. I don't know if this is a cultural quirk or if the crime
is that terrible. It was true in the nicer/newer neighborhoods as
well as the rotting old ones. This, as much as the...well everything
else to be honest, made me not really consider it when the folks
asked if we wanted to move down.